All This and He Can Cook, Too

I recently hear an interview with Ian Jackman, author of 1001 Things to Eat Before You Diet.

Jackman travelled across the US eating the best of local foods, and wrote about it.  He ate lobster rolls and burgers and fried steak.  One wonders how much weight he gained on the trip.  He may mention it in the book, but I don't recall it coming up in the interview.

One thing he did mention is that the best French fries he found were made by political consultant and activist James Carville.  He might be more famous for steering Bill Clinton into the presidency, but his nickname "The Ragin' Cajun" not only reflects his origins and his temper, but a cooking proclivity, as well.

From Carville's book, Stickin':  The Case for Loyalty comes his French fry recipe, from the chapter called "Louisiana Loyalty Lunch."

2 pounds russet potatoes
Oil for deep frying
Salt to taste
1 brown paper bag

1.  Take the russet potatoes.  Don't worry if they sit around the kitchen a couple of weeks.  The older the better, within reason.  There's some chemical reason to do with starch that makes older potatoes fry better.  I don't recall exactly what the reason is;  just trust me.  Peel 'em.  (You can leave the skins on, if you prefer.)

2.  Get a big bowl of iced water ready.

3.  Use a good knife.  If you've got a mandoline slicer and know how to use one, then go ahead, but I've never figured out how to do it without cutting myself.  Cut potatoes into quarter-inch strips, lengthwise.

4.  Put 'em in the ice water for at least one hour, up to 36 hours.  I saw a recipe in The New York Times that said up to 48 hours, but this is impulse food, Mr. Sulzberger.

5.  Get oil up to 325 degrees.  A good product is the DeLonghi Roto Fryer.  Use that if you have one.  Use peanut oil and add a couple of dollops of bacon grease, for texture.  Three or four tablespoons.  If your cholesterol is less than 150, use a lot.  Over 150, one tablespoon.  Check with your internist.  (I've done the fries with olive oil and never had a problem.)

6.  Fry them at 325 for about 10 minutes until they just turn golden.  Do this ahead of time.  Put the fries aside.

7.  Five minutes before you eat, finish them off at 370.

8.  Take a brown paper bag.  Never use paper towels.  Only idiots use paper towels.  Put the fries in the bag.  Consistent with your blood pressure, add adequate but not too much salt.  Shake 'em up real good.

9.  Serve 'em up.  Have some ketchup handy.  I like a little ketchup.  I like cold ketchup.  Some like it at room temperature.

When my husband was alive, we'd make deep-fried turkeys on occasion, at least for Thanksgiving the last few years.  We'd also make French fries using this double cooking method.  They were delicious.

As colorful and interesting as Carville is, I can't help thinking the most fascinating thing about him is his happy marriage to equally loyal Republican strategist Mary Matalin.  I find it touching that his web site has a link to his wife's.

After being on opposite sides of the presidential campaign of 1992, Carville and Matalin married in 1993, and seem to have been happily married ever since.  Somehow, their passion for one another transcended their political passion. They have the same rule that many married couple seeking harmony have:  don't discuss politics.

Carville says that his recipe for a happy marriage is "capitulation, retreat and surrender."  I love it.

The Wikipedia entry for Carville mentions that he believes that Al Gore will run for president in 2008.  Be still my heart.

[Image of Carville and Matalin from Carl Cox Photography]

[French fry image from Paul Poplis]